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Historical evolution of silk

2020-01-17
times

Initial development

In ancient legends, Lei Zu, the wife of the Yellow Emperor, invented "sericulture silk". However, in reality, when silk was invented is still controversial.

According to the archaeological findings, experts speculated that in the middle of the Neolithic period, 5000 6000 years ago, China began to raise silkworms, take silk weave silk. It is the half cocoon discovered in Xiyin village, Xiaxian County, Shanxi Province in 1926 that can really explain the utilization of cocoon. According to the research of archaeologist Li Ji entomologist Liu Xule, it is identified as silkworm cocoon. The cocoon shell is about 1.36cm long 1.04cm wide. It was cut off part of the cocoon with a sharp blade. Xiyin village is located in Yangshao period (about 5600-6000 years ago), which provides a physical object for people to study the origin of silk.

Textile tools have been found in Hemudu site, which we can infer that the use of silk is at least no later than Liangzhu culture. The influential statement is that Chinese scientists discovered the silk fabrics in 1958, 5300 years ago in Dawenkou Culture period.

Silk fabric technology had been monopolized by China for hundreds of years. Because its weaving technology was a complex process at that time, because of its unique hand feel luster, it attracted people's attention. Therefore, silk fabric became the main international trade material in the world before the industrial revolution. The earliest silk fabrics can only be used by emperors, but the rapid development of silk industry makes the silk culture constantly infiltrate into Chinese culture geography society. become an indispensable high-level goods in the foreign trade of Chinese merchants.

At first, China strictly controlled the spread of silk weaving sericulture technology, prohibited its flow to foreign countries. However, with the assistance of Chinese immigrants, North Korea successfully achieved a breakthrough in sericulture technology with the previous 200 years. In addition, silkworms were successfully raised in Hetian River Basin (500-300 years ago) India (300 years ago). However, it was around 550 years before the Roman Empire got silkworm seeds developed sericulture technology.

Shang Zhou Dynasties

In the Shang Dynasty, agriculture developed greatly, sericulture also formed a certain scale. Although the number of Shang Dynasty silk fabrics discovered by archaeology is limited, jacquard silk fabrics have appeared, which shows that the weaving technology at that time has reached a considerable level.

During the Western Zhou Dynasty, the rulers had strict organization management of industrial production, the silk production technology was more advanced than that of the Shang Dynasty.

The spring Autumn period the Warring States period are the transitional period slavery to feudalism in Chinese history, with great changes in productivity socio-economic formation. Sericulture silk industry have also been paid attention to, the development of agricultural sericulture has become an important national policy to enrich the country strengthen the people.

During the Warring States period, the farmers who combined agriculture handicraft industry became the basic production units of the society, handicraft industry became an important part of agricultural economy. The specialized division of labor in silk production is more obvious. Some technologies have been handed down generation to generation, reaching a fairly high level. Silk can be produced in almost all places, the variety of silk is also rich, mainly divided into three categories: silk, Qi Jin. The emergence of brocade is an important milestone in the history of Chinese silk. It combines the excellent performance of silk with fine arts. It is only a noble fabric, but also a work of art. It greatly improves the cultural connotation historical value of silk products has a profound impact. At that time, Chinese silk also spread to India. In Kautilya's book on political affairs (also translated as "governing the country stabilizing the state"), an Indian statesman philosopher, there is the word "chinapatta", which means "the bundle of Chinese silk". In addition, it can be seen many Sanskrit words that the ancient Indian people knew silk much more accurately than the Greeks Romans. They knew that silk was made of worms silk was drawn cocoons.


Qin Han Dynasties

Qin Han Dynasties is a period of initial consolidation development of China's feudal society. The unification of Qin the establishment of centralized system laid the foundation for the prosperity of Han Dynasty. In the early Han Dynasty, the policy of "cultivating with the people" promoted the rapid development of economy. The large-scale official silk industry has been established, its products mainly meet the needs of the court the government; the private silk industry has also developed greatly, some workshops have formed their own product characteristics popularity. Silk production area has developed compared with that of Shang Zhou dynasties. During the Western Han Dynasty, silk production was focused on the middle lower reaches of the Yellow River. Since the Eastern Han Dynasty, Shu Brocade in the Southwest has become a famous silk product in China.

During the Qin Han Dynasties, the silk industry only got great development, but also with the influence of China's large-scale expansion of foreign countries in the Han Dynasty, the silk trade export reached an unprecedented level of prosperity. During the period of Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, he attacked the Huns in the north controlled the Hexi corridor leading to the western regions. Zhang Qian's two missions to the western regions connected the road the Central Plains to the western regions connected Eurasia. With the promotion of trade, the economic cultural exchanges between the Central Plains the border areas, between China its East West neighbors have further developed, thus forming the famous "Silk Road". This road starts Chang'an, goes West through Gansu Xinjiang, passes through Central Asia Western Asia, finally reaches Europe. In the third year of Yuanshuo (126 BC), under the policy of Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, Chinese silk silk were continuously transported to Central Asia, West Asia Europe through the silk road. A large number of Han Dynasty silk fabrics unearthed along the Silk Road were the material evidence of the prosperous trade at that time. China's silk production technology also spread to Central Asia during this period.

Wei Jin period

During the period of Wei, Jin, southern Northern Dynasties, wars continued, the country split for a long time, the regime changed frequently. The dramatic social unrest, complex political structure, continuous ethnic integration extensive international exchanges make silk production difficult to develop, but rich in connotation diverse in appearance. During this period, the North was still the main producing area of silk products, the silk industry in Chengdu, Sichuan Province was always developed. Due to the relevant policies of the Three Kingdoms period, the development of silk industry in the south of the Yangtze River had a new start. After the operation of the South Dynasty, it was further developed, which laid the foundation for the rise of the silk industry in the south of the Yangtze River after the middle of the Tang Dynasty.

In the Sui Dynasty, the focus of sericulture silk industry in China had shifted to the Yangtze River Basin.

Sui Tang Dynasties

Sui Tang Dynasties is the peak of the development of China's feudal society. Generally speaking, the country is strong, the economy is developed, the business is prosperous, especially the cultural opening, which shows the elegant inclusive style of this era. On the basis of this society, the silk industry has also reached a climax of development. At that time, there were three important silk producing areas: first, the Yellow River Basin, with Hebei Henan as the main body; second, Sichuan Bashu region, the western part of Jiannan road Shannan road can be divided into this area; third, the southeast area under the Yangtze River, which basically formed a situation of three powers. After the rebellion of an Shi, the importance of Jiangnan area has been greatly enhanced. In addition, the development of silk in the northwest is second to none in the remote areas, shows strong local characteristics.

The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of silk production, with unprecedented production, quality variety. The production organization of silk is divided into palace handicraft industry, rural sideline industry independent handicraft industry. At the same time, the foreign trade of silk has also been greatly developed. only has the number of Silk Road channels increased to three, but also the frequency of trade has increased unprecedentedly. The production trade of silk made a great contribution to the prosperity of Tang Dynasty.

The silk trade in Tang Dynasty was very developed, the Silk Road on land used a circuitous road to the north. The maritime silk road also rose in this period. Silk products were transported to the Korean Peninsula, Japan, Southeast Asia, India even to Europe by Arab merchants through the East China Sea line the South China Sea line. The prosperity of silk trade led to the spread of silk technology. In the 7th century, silk production started Japan in the East, Europe in the west, India in the southwest, basically laying a pattern of silk production areas in the future.


The two Song Dynasty

In song Yuan Dynasties, with the progress of sericulture technology, Chinese silk had a short period of glory. only the varieties of silk patterns colors have increased significantly, especially the three distinctive new varieties of song brocade, silk decorative gold fabrics, but also the summary promotion of sericulture production technology have made a great breakthrough.

In the Northern Song Dynasty, silk production took the Yellow River Basin, Jiangnan region Sichuan region as the important production areas. In the middle late period, the focus of production had been shifted to Jiangnan region, but the north still maintained an advantage in the production of high-grade silk products. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the silk production areas were mainly concentrated in the Yangtze River Valley, the silk production in the south of the Yangtze River was dominant. Zhejiang had become the real "Silk Palace". After the capture of Sixteen States of Yanyun, Liao began to develop sericulture silk production. Although the silk industry in Jin Dynasty was damaged, it also maintained a certain scale.

The official silk production workshops in the Song Dynasty had a considerable scale. Under the supervision of Shaofu in Beijing, there were Ling Jin Yuan, ran yuan, Wensi yuan Wenxiu yuan. At the same time, there were official weaving institutions in important silk production areas. In the year of Zhenzong, there were more than 400 looms in the damask yard of Tokyo, with an annual output of 10000 looms in Runzhou. Wuzhou, the emerging silk industry center city, is known as "the world of clothing quilt". Taihu Lake Basin "cocoon thin mountain, the sound of cars even heard.". In the Song Dynasty, the folk silk weaving industry was very developed. In addition to being a traditional handicraft industry in the countryside, a large number of silk weaving workshops emerged in the city, the strength of the folk machine owners was growing. In terms of foreign trade, due to the interruption of the Silk Road on land, the maritime silk trade has made great progress

Qin Han Dynasties

Qin Han Dynasties is a period of initial consolidation development of China's feudal society. The unification of Qin the establishment of centralized system laid the foundation for the prosperity of Han Dynasty. In the early Han Dynasty, the policy of "cultivating with the people" promoted the rapid development of economy. The large-scale official silk industry has been established, its products mainly meet the needs of the court the government; the private silk industry has also developed greatly, some workshops have formed their own product characteristics popularity. Silk production area has developed compared with that of Shang Zhou dynasties. During the Western Han Dynasty, silk production was focused on the middle lower reaches of the Yellow River. Since the Eastern Han Dynasty, Shu Brocade in the Southwest has become a famous silk product in China.

During the Qin Han Dynasties, the silk industry only got great development, but also with the influence of China's large-scale expansion of foreign countries in the Han Dynasty, the silk trade export reached an unprecedented level of prosperity. During the period of Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, he attacked the Huns in the north controlled the Hexi corridor leading to the western regions. Zhang Qian's two missions to the western regions connected the road the Central Plains to the western regions connected Eurasia. With the promotion of trade, the economic cultural exchanges between the Central Plains the border areas, between China its East West neighbors have further developed, thus forming the famous "Silk Road". This road starts Chang'an, goes West through Gansu Xinjiang, passes through Central Asia Western Asia, finally reaches Europe. In the third year of Yuanshuo (126 BC), under the policy of Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, Chinese silk silk were continuously transported to Central Asia, West Asia Europe through the silk road. A large number of Han Dynasty silk fabrics unearthed along the Silk Road were the material evidence of the prosperous trade at that time. China's silk production technology also spread to Central Asia during this period.


Wei Jin period

During the period of Wei, Jin, southern Northern Dynasties, wars continued, the country split for a long time, the regime changed frequently. The dramatic social unrest, complex political structure, continuous ethnic integration extensive international exchanges make silk production difficult to develop, but rich in connotation diverse in appearance. During this period, the North was still the main producing area of silk products, the silk industry in Chengdu, Sichuan Province was always developed. Due to the relevant policies of the Three Kingdoms period, the development of silk industry in the south of the Yangtze River had a new start. After the operation of the South Dynasty, it was further developed, which laid the foundation for the rise of the silk industry in the south of the Yangtze River after the middle of the Tang Dynasty.

In the Sui Dynasty, the focus of sericulture silk industry in China had shifted to the Yangtze River Basin.

Sui Tang Dynasties

Sui Tang Dynasties is the peak of the development of China's feudal society. Generally speaking, the country is strong, the economy is developed, the business is prosperous, especially the cultural opening, which shows the elegant inclusive style of this era. On the basis of this society, the silk industry has also reached a climax of development. At that time, there were three important silk producing areas: first, the Yellow River Basin, with Hebei Henan as the main body; second, Sichuan Bashu region, the western part of Jiannan road Shannan road can be divided into this area; third, the southeast area under the Yangtze River, which basically formed a situation of three powers. After the rebellion of an Shi, the importance of Jiangnan area has been greatly enhanced. In addition, the development of silk in the northwest is second to none in the remote areas, shows strong local characteristics.

The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of silk production, with unprecedented production, quality variety. The production organization of silk is divided into palace handicraft industry, rural sideline industry independent handicraft industry. At the same time, the foreign trade of silk has also been greatly developed. only has the number of Silk Road channels increased to three, but also the frequency of trade has increased unprecedentedly. The production trade of silk made a great contribution to the prosperity of Tang Dynasty.

The silk trade in Tang Dynasty was very developed, the Silk Road on land used a circuitous road to the north. The maritime silk road also rose in this period. Silk products were transported to the Korean Peninsula, Japan, Southeast Asia, India even to Europe by Arab merchants through the East China Sea line the South China Sea line. The prosperity of silk trade led to the spread of silk technology. In the 7th century, silk production started Japan in the East, Europe in the west, India in the southwest, basically laying a pattern of silk production areas in the future.

The two Song Dynasty

In song Yuan Dynasties, with the progress of sericulture technology, Chinese silk had a short period of glory. only the varieties of silk patterns colors have increased significantly, especially the three distinctive new varieties of song brocade, silk decorative gold fabrics, but also the summary promotion of sericulture production technology have made a great breakthrough. Silk is transported all over the world through the maritime Silk Road.

Yuan Dynasty

Before the unification of China, the rulers of the Yuan Dynasty adjusted their economic policies paid attention to the protection of productive forces means of production. The government has set up an agricultural management organization, the Department of agriculture, to guide supervise agricultural production; the first official agricultural book in history, the compendium of agricultural mulberry, has also been issued throughout the country to promote advanced production technology; to encourage the reclamation of wasteland the practice of land reclamation, so that agricultural production social economy can be recovered developed rapidly. Western astronomy, calendars, arithmetic medicine were introduced to China, Chinese compasses, gunpowder printing were first introduced to foreign countries. The political situation of cultural exchange unification between China foreign countries has promoted the improvement of silk technology. The silk industry in the north of the lower reaches of the Yellow River has picked up, the division of silk production has been meticulous, the weaving technology has been improved; the position of silk production center in the south of the middle lower reaches of the Yangtze River has been further consolidated improved.

After the middle of the Yuan Dynasty, the pattern of production areas changed a lot. Silk production declined in the north, Jiangnan became more important. On the one hand, the cold climate makes the North unsuitable for sericulture production; on the other hand, the planting of cotton makes sericulture tend to be concentrated. Due to the special interest of Mongolian nobles in precious crafts, a large number of official workshops were set up in the Yuan Dynasty, a large number of excellent craftsmen all over the country were gathered to collect Silk raw materials for large-scale production. The huge official weaving system is an important feature of silk production in the Yuan Dynasty, which has a certain inhibitory effect on the production of folk silk.

Ming Dynasty

Due to the germination development of capitalism in Ming Dynasty, the production trade of silk also changed greatly: the commercialization trend of silk production became increasingly obvious, the overseas trade of silk developed rapidly. The area of Suhu in the south of the Yangtze River has become the most important silk producing area. A number of typical silk specialized towns have been developed, official weaving has become more more mature. At this time, Chinese silk has reached the most active period.

In the early Ming Dynasty, the policy of concentrating on the development of reclamation, water conservancy agriculture was adopted, which changed the identity of handicraft slaves in the Yuan Dynasty greatly liberated the labor productivity. In addition to regular rotation service, the hereditary handicraftsmen can make their own handicrafts sell them on the market most of the time, while also reducing the business tax. The recovery of agriculture, handicraft industry Commerce promoted the progress development of sericulture silk production technology. Many works of high academic value have been published in Ming Dynasty, such as Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica, which has made a scientific classification of mulberry varieties; Xu Guangqi's sericulture chapter in the book of agricultural administration, which has a comprehensive discussion on sericulture production; Song Yingxing's Tiangong Kaiwu, which is the most important work of silk production at that time.

At the beginning of Ming Dynasty, a series of measures were taken to emphasize agriculture frugality, the production area of sericulture silk industry was reduced to some extent. However, a regional intensive production centered on the south of the Yangtze River was formed, among which the five major silk towns were Suzhou, Hangzhou, Songjiang, Jiajiang Huzhou. After the middle of Ming Dynasty, the social atmosphere became more more extravagant. Under the condition of commodity economy professional division of labor, the silk industry Commerce in Jiangnan area had a great prosperity.

The official weaving industry in Ming Dynasty had a large scale. Apart the establishment of central dyeing weaving institutions in Nanjing Beijing, local dyeing weaving bureaus were set up in Suzhou, Hangzhou more than 20 places in the silk producing areas, respectively, to supply the sections needed by the court the government every year. There are two modes of production: "local weaving" "collar weaving". The local weaving is a system of shift corvee, the collar weaving is a non-governmental machine maker. The personal attachment of artisans is more relaxed than that of the Yuan Dynasty.

In the Ming Dynasty, the sea ban was implemented. Foreign trade was a tribute trade controlled by the government. Silk products flowed into surrounding countries regions in the form of imperial reward. After the middle of Ming Dynasty, the ban on the sea was gradually lifted, a large number of Chinese raw silk silk were sold to Japan Europe through Macao. In Guangzhou, Quanzhou, Ningbo other places, the government set up "municipal shipping cases" to monopolize foreign trade, expressly stipulated that no private trading with foreigners was allowed.

Qing Dynasty

The silk industry lost a lot in the war in the early Qing Dynasty. When Kangxi adopted encouraging measures, silk production achieved rapid development further concentrated in the area around Taihu Lake the Pearl River Delta, especially in the south of the Yangtze River, which became the center of the National Silk Industry in terms of scale level.

In the Qing Dynasty, the official weaving system abolished the Ming Dynasty's craftsmanship system, the raw materials were mainly purchased. The overall scale was smaller than that of the Ming Dynasty. The important ones were Jiangning weaving Bureau, Suzhou weaving Bureau Hangzhou weaving Bureau, which were jointly called "Jiangnan three weaving" were responsible for supplying all kinds of silk products needed by the court the government. The production scale of the folk silk industry has been expanded, the specialized division of labor regional division of labor are more obvious. A number of prosperous silk specialized towns have emerged, with a wide range of products a prosperous domestic market. In terms of foreign trade, the Qing Dynasty strictly enforced the ban on the sea, strengthened the restrictions on foreign trade carried out one-off trade. Nevertheless, China's raw silk exports to Japan to European countries have reached a considerable scale.

In the late Qing Dynasty, China's silk industry fell into a very sad situation under the double attack of heavy taxes heavy dumping.

the Republic of China era

According to the needs of China's 450 million people at that time, the industrial plan formulated by Sun Yat-sen listed the development goals of 750000 tons of cocoons, 71000 tons of silk 1125 million meters of silk. In the people's livelihood, he proposed "improving the silk industry to increase production", "studying the spinning methods too carefully, improving the variety, quality color of silk respectively", so that "China's silk industry can gradually progress.", To compete with foreign countries. Mr. Zhongshan's warning about "if China's mulberry leaf, silkworm seed silk quality have been improved, the old laws, China's silk industry is only a failure, I'm afraid it will be eliminated by nature, it will be completely eliminated" became the consensus of the national silk industry at that time. Many people of insight rushed to call for "saving the country through industry" called for the establishment of silk technology schools, the development of silk production the increase of silk exports. At that time, some industrialists responded positively the government also gave some support. The production technology of mulberry planting, sericulture, silk reeling silk weaving were improved. Silk has become an important material for the country's export, accounting for more than 20% of the country's total export value at that time. In the 26th year of the Republic of China (1937), the Anti Japanese war began. Japanese imperialism occupied the main silk producing areas of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shandong Guangdong, plundered silk resources destroyed Chinese silk production. In the thirty fourth year of the Republic of China (1945), shortly after the victory of the Anti Japanese War, it went through the civil war between the Kuomintang the Communist Party. In the thirty eighth year of the Republic of China (1949), the production export of cocoon silk were all low points in the period of the Republic of China, the whole silk industry was on the verge of extinction.


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